I recently had the pleasure of experiencing an unforgettable birding trip in Ecuador with the Magic Birding Circuit, staying at the renowned San Jorge Eco-Lodges. From the ease of the flight into Quito to the exceptional accommodations and world-class service, every aspect of the trip exceeded expectations. The combination of expert guidance, spectacular wildlife, and breathtaking landscapes made for a birding adventure that will be hard to top.

Arrival in Quito and Accommodations

Flying into Quito was seamless, with United Airlines offering a smooth experience from the U.S. Upon arrival, we spent our first night at the Hilton Quito, which provided a luxurious start to the trip. The Hilton’s comfort was just what we needed to relax before the adventure began.

The morning after our arrival in Quito, we decided to explore the vibrant city before our birding adventure officially began. After a quick Uber ride, we found ourselves in the heart of Old Town Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Walking through the historic streets, we admired the beautifully preserved colonial architecture, lively plazas, and the impressive churches that define this part of the city. The cultural richness of Quito added another layer to our trip, allowing us to experience a bit of local history and flavor

By midday, we made our way back to the hotel and prepared for the next phase of our adventure. That afternoon, we were picked up at the hotel and transported to the San Jorge Eco Lodge Quito.

San Jorge Quito Lodge: A Comfortable Start

Our first stop was the San Jorge Quito Lodge. Nestled within an 80-hectare bird reserve—Quito’s last remnant of untouched Andean forest—the lodge is surrounded by native flowering trees, lush gardens, and exquisite orchids carefully cultivated from their reserve. The lodge’s picturesque front patio is adorned with hummingbird feeders that attract a stunning array of hummingbird species.

Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Carlos, the lodge's caretaker and host. He gave us a tour of the property, explaining its history, unique features.

Shining Sunbeam Hummingbirds - San Jorge Quito

After settling into our cozy accommodations, we had several hours to explore the lodge grounds before dinner. Walking through the lush gardens and scenic trails, we encountered a variety of hummingbirds, which were perfect photography subjects. The serene environment and the anticipation of what was to come made for a peaceful and enjoyable first night at the lodge.

San Jorge Guacamayos: An Off-Grid Paradise

The next morning, we met our guide, Jorge Cruz, son of George Cruz, the founder of the San Jorge Eco-Lodges. From the moment we were introduced, Jorge’s passion for birding and photography shone through. His deep knowledge of the local species and keen ability to spot them reassured us that we were in expert hands. This would be the start of an incredibly educational and rewarding adventure.

After a quick briefing on what to expect over the next few days, we were ready to embark on our journey, excited to see what Ecuador’s rich biodiversity had to offer.

We headed to the east side of the Andes, where we spent the day visiting several private bird reserves photographing hummingbirds. And the end of a photo filled day, we arrived at the San Jorge Guacamayos Lodge, their newest addition located in the Upper Amazon region. This lodge was an entirely different experience. After a short 1/4-mile walk from where we left the car, we arrived at this secluded paradise, completely off the grid—no electricity, no internet. What might sound like a drawback actually turned out to be something special. Immersed in the heart of the rainforest, we were able to fully connect with the surroundings, uninterrupted by modern distractions.

The tranquility of the lodge allowed us to experience nature in its purest form. The night skies were pitch black, revealing a breathtaking array of stars, and the only sounds were those of the jungle. It was a reminder of how rare it is to truly disconnect and be in sync with nature. Although they are in the process of completing the installation of electricity and internet in this amazing lodge, I am honestly torn over that. There was something pretty special about being completely disconnected from the fast-paced world out there.

San Jorge Quito and Tandayapa: The Perfect Finish

Returning to San Jorge Quito for two more nights, we continued to enjoy the impeccable hospitality and excellent birding opportunities. The lodge’s proximity to private reserves allowed us to photograph species like the Andean Condor and the elusive Sword-billed Hummingbird.

Our final stop was San Jorge Tandayapa, located in the famed Tandayapa Valley, in the Andean cloud forest, a hotspot for birders. This area is a haven for hummingbird photography, with species like the Booted Racket-tail and the Violet-tailed Sylph frequently visiting the feeders. The setup at Tandayapa was perfect for photographers, with platforms designed to maximize shooting opportunities.

The Magic of the San Jorge Eco-Lodges

The history of the San Jorge Eco-Lodges is one of conservation and passion. Founded by George Cruz, the lodges were designed to preserve Ecuador’s incredible biodiversity while providing birders and photographers with access to some of the country’s best wildlife habitats. Over the years, the network of lodges has grown, offering unique experiences in different ecosystems—from the highlands of Quito to the depths of the Amazon.

Our guide, Jorge Cruz, has carried on his father’s legacy with enthusiasm. His deep understanding of the local bird species, their behaviors, and the best locations for photography was invaluable. Each day felt like a new adventure, with Jorge expertly guiding us through private reserves and hidden gems that only someone with his knowledge could offer.

Outstanding Service and Cuisine

Throughout the trip, the service was exceptional. From the moment we were picked up to our departure at the airport, we were well taken care of. The staff at each lodge went above and beyond to ensure our comfort. The meals, made from fresh, local ingredients, were delicious and a highlight of the trip. We were treated to Ecuadorian specialties that showcased the region’s rich culinary traditions.

Let’s Talk Food

One of the highlights of our trip was the incredible food we enjoyed throughout our stay, especially at the San Jorge Eco-Lodges. The lodges proudly serve authentic Ecuadorian cuisine, showcasing the rich flavors and culinary traditions of the region. Each meal felt like a celebration of Ecuador’s local ingredients, and every bite told a story of the land and its people.

Ecuadorian food is diverse, with influences from the Andes, the Amazon, and the coastal regions. At the lodges, we were treated to a variety of traditional dishes, from hearty soups and stews to fresh seafood and grilled meats. A common starter we enjoyed was locro de papa, a creamy potato soup typically served with cheese and avocado, which was the perfect comfort food after a long day of birding.

The use of fresh, local ingredients made every meal feel special. The lodges source much of their produce from nearby farms, ensuring that the food is not only delicious but also sustainable. From vibrant fruits like papayas and passionfruit to Andean potatoes, the ingredients were always fresh and full of flavor.

In addition to the fantastic flavors, I was pleasantly surprised by how well my stomach handled the food. Having traveled to various countries in Latin America, I’ve often experienced gastrointestinal issues during my trips, but Ecuador was an exception. Whether it was the freshness of the ingredients, the care in preparation, or simply good luck, I didn’t encounter any GI-related problems during our entire stay. The attention to food safety and cleanliness at the lodges was evident, and it allowed me to fully enjoy every meal without worry.

For travelers who are food lovers or those with sensitive stomachs, Ecuador’s culinary offerings are a delight. The combination of local ingredients, traditional flavors, and a clean, safe dining environment makes for an unforgettable culinary journey, and I’d highly recommend it to anyone considering a trip to this beautiful country.

Unmatched Photography Opportunities

For bird photographers, this trip was a dream come true. The Magic Birding Circuit’s partnerships with private reserves opened up access to areas rich in biodiversity. Each day brought new species and new photography opportunities. Whether it was capturing a rare Antpitta hopping through the underbrush or getting a close-up of a hummingbird in flight, there was no shortage of subjects.

The lodges themselves were designed with photographers in mind. Many featured feeders, strategically placed perches to help capture stunning images of the local birdlife. The combination of expert guiding, access to prime locations, and well-thought-out setups made every shot count.

Safety in Ecuador

Recently, Ecuador has faced a few safety challenges, which have sparked concerns for travelers. Headlines about crime and political unrest have led to several travel advisories being issued by governments, advising visitors to exercise increased caution when visiting certain areas of the country. These advisories, while important, have also significantly impacted Ecuador’s tourism industry, with many travelers canceling trips or opting for alternative destinations.

However, it’s crucial to understand the context of these advisories and where the issues are located. The majority of the safety concerns are concentrated in specific regions, such as certain coastal areas like Guayaquil and some border regions in the north, where drug-related violence has unfortunately increased. Most of these areas are far from the tourist destinations that Ecuador is known for, including Quito, the Andes, the Amazon, and the Galápagos Islands.

In contrast, many of the country’s main tourist areas remain safe for travelers. During our recent visit, we felt completely secure throughout the entire trip, including during our exploration of Old Town Quito. We spent a relaxed morning walking around the historic streets, taking in the culture and beauty of the city without any issues. The streets were filled with locals and tourists alike, and we never once felt uneasy or at risk.

The San Jorge Eco-Lodges, where we spent the majority of our trip, are located in remote, peaceful areas far removed from any of the regions facing difficulties. From the highlands of Quito to the Upper Amazon at San Jorge Guacamayos, safety was never a concern. The staff at each lodge took excellent care of us, and we felt completely at ease, even in the more remote areas where the lodges are located.

It’s unfortunate that travel advisories have had such a significant impact on Ecuador’s tourism industry because the reality is that many parts of the country are safe and welcoming. The media can often paint a broad picture, but for those visiting tourist-friendly areas, the experience is likely to be one of safety, hospitality, and wonder.

Ecuador is a country filled with extraordinary wildlife, rich culture, and beautiful landscapes, and it's still very much a destination worth visiting. For anyone concerned about safety, it's essential to do thorough research, stick to well-known travel routes, and rely on trusted operators like the Magic Birding Circuit, who ensure that every aspect of the trip is well-planned and secure.

Impacts of Climate Change

Like many countries around the world, Ecuador is experiencing the profound effects of climate change, which is having a significant impact on its environment and infrastructure. One of the most noticeable consequences has been the disruption of the country's hydroelectric power production, which supplies the majority of Ecuador’s electricity.

Ecuador relies heavily on its rivers to power hydroelectric plants, but in recent years, extended periods of drought have drastically reduced water levels. These extended dry spells have created a strain on the country’s energy grid, leading to widespread blackouts. During our recent trip, we experienced one such blackout while staying in Quito, a direct result of the ongoing electricity shortages. The government has implemented planned blackouts in the evenings to manage the shortfall, and while this could sound alarming to travelers, we found the experience to be well-managed and non-disruptive.

The blackout we experienced was at the San Jorge Quito Eco-Lodge, and we were well-notified in advance by the lodge staff. The communication was clear, and the lodge was prepared with alternative arrangements to ensure our comfort and safety. Despite the temporary loss of power, we felt completely secure on the lodge property, surrounded by nature and under the guidance of the attentive staff. In fact, the blackout added a special touch to our evening, as we sat under the stars and enjoyed the peaceful, quiet surroundings, free from the hum of modern technology.

Climate change in Ecuador is not only affecting electricity production but also the ecosystems that make the country such a rich destination for birding and wildlife. Shifting weather patterns and changing habitats are impacting species distributions, and it’s becoming more crucial to protect these fragile environments. The Magic Birding Circuit, through the San Jorge Eco-Lodges, is deeply committed to conservation efforts, working to preserve these habitats in the face of environmental challenges.

While the blackouts are a reminder of the tangible effects of climate change, they shouldn’t deter travelers from visiting Ecuador. The country is taking steps to manage these disruptions, and the impact on tourists is minimal. For us, the experience was just another part of understanding the dynamic environment in Ecuador and its efforts to cope with climate-related challenges. Despite these difficulties, Ecuador remains a welcoming and safe destination with an abundance of natural beauty and wildlife.

Final Thoughts

Our birding adventure with the Magic Birding Circuit was a remarkable experience. The San Jorge Eco-Lodges provided the perfect balance of comfort, adventure, and photography opportunities. Jorge Cruz’s expertise and passion for birding made each day special, and the off-grid experience at San Jorge Guacamayos allowed us to truly connect with nature. Whether you're a seasoned birder or a wildlife photographer, a trip to the San Jorge Eco-Lodges is a must for anyone looking to experience the beauty of Ecuador’s wildlife. For more information on the San Jorge Eco Lodges or to book a trip visit https://www.sanjorgeecolodges.com/

Ecuador Birding Adventure with the Magic Birding Circuit: A Review of the San Jorge Eco-Lodges